Roland G. Murphy established RGM Watch Company in 1992. Unlike other American watch brands like Shinola and MVMT, RGM doesn’t depend on outsourced movements. Instead, RGM produces its cases, dials, and movements in-house, adhering to the “American Made” standard, which is equivalent to the “Swiss Made” standard. RGM produces high-end watches that can compete with those from Switzerland, Germany, Japan, and other countries. One of their latest offerings, the PS-801-CE Classic Enamel, features an enamel dial and RGM Caliber 801. While the price tag may not make it accessible to everyone, luxury watch enthusiasts will find it a captivating addition to the market. RGM is located in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania. Today we are going to review their Classic Enamel PS-801-CE timepiece.
Brand Background
Roland G. Murphy, the founder of RGM Watch Company in Pennsylvania in 1992, has a long history of watchmaking that began during his high school days. He initially worked in the cabinet making division of a clock company, where he developed an interest in timepieces. In 1986, Roland enrolled in the Bowman Technical School in Lancaster, PA, to pursue his passion for watchmaking. He then traveled to Switzerland to train with The Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program (WOSTEP). After gaining extensive experience in product development at the Hamilton Watch Co., Roland decided to create his own brand of watches. He draws inspiration from his love for Swiss and American watch history, as well as his expertise in restoring timepieces. Roland creates unique designs by merging modern technology with traditional techniques. To preserve the art of traditional craftsmanship, such as engine-turned (guilloché) dials, he utilizes antique, hand-operated machinery. In addition, RGM stands out among luxury manufacturers by providing customized watches, ranging from modifying the dials on production models to creating completely in-house bespoke timepieces.
Dial and Hands
Typically, when writing reviews for watches, I tend to begin with discussing the design of the case. However, in this instance, the enamel dial is so noteworthy that it deserves to be mentioned first. Although enamel dials have been around for centuries and can be traced back to France and Switzerland in the late 17th century, the art of enameling goes even further back and can be seen in Ancient Egyptian artifacts. Despite its long history, producing enamel watch dials remains an incredibly challenging task that requires fusing particles of glass onto a metal dial at extremely high temperatures.
Even luxury watch manufacturers with complex in-house manufacturing processes and award-winning designs depend on specialized companies such as Donzé Cadrans in Switzerland to produce their enamel dials, indicating the challenge of this task. Donzé Cadrans has stated that up to 75% of their enamel dials are discarded due to defects, which highlights how much of an art form enamel dial production is. However, the hard work and attention to detail that goes into creating enamel dials is ultimately worth it, as their stunning and iridescent finishes are nearly impossible to replicate (although some may argue that well-executed lacquered dials come close).
The RGM PS-801-CE Classic Enamel watch has a dial that is made using the Grand Feu technique. This method requires applying three layers of enamel to add depth to the dial. However, this technique is quite challenging as there is a higher risk of cracking, melting or burning with every additional layer that is re-fired. Moreover, even the slightest changes in weather conditions during the production process can result in cracks or other blemishes on the enamel. While RGM produces intricate guilloché dials in-house, it outsources the enamel finishing to external artisans. In the case of the PS-801-CE, the dials are made by a retired Swiss expert in a home workshop, which is now on my list of places to visit.
The watch’s face has a timeless white hue, paired with black Roman numerals and an outer minute track that features Arabic numerals every five minutes. In the center, you can find the hour and minute hands, with the RGM WATCH CO emblem positioned above and LANCASTER, PENNA. U.S.A. written below. The third layer, situated at 6 o’clock, exhibits a seconds sub-dial complete with Arabic numerals printed every ten seconds. The dial boasts a vintage pocket watch style with a touch of modernity. It features blued steel Breguet hands that enhance the vintage feel, while Keystone hands are available on some models, such as the Caliber 20. The dial’s intricate yet unassuming design exudes elegance, and the stunning enamel finish must be seen in person to be fully appreciated.
Case and Design
The RGM PS-801-CE Classic Enamel watch case has a diameter of 42mm and is 12.3mm in height, offering a sturdy yet proportionate size. Constructed in the United States from polished 316L stainless steel, the Pennsylvania series case features unique ridges that resemble architectural columns on both sides, distinguishing it from the cases of other renowned watchmakers such as Chronoswiss and Breguet. The front of the case is finished with a sloping bezel that slopes down and outwards towards the case edge, presenting an intriguing yet subtle design.
The 22mm lug width is held together by external screws, which adds to the watch’s appeal. The bottom of the lugs have a slight curve that draws attention to the polished screw heads. Additionally, the exhibition caseback showcases the RGM’s in-house 801 caliber movement, which is the second standout feature, and has a sapphire crystal. The steel edge encompassing the glass showcases a similar slope to the front bezel, contributing to the case’s pleasing symmetry. The crown is larger than usual, making manual winding and time-setting a breeze, and is adorned with a Keystone insignia. Although the crown does not screw down, the case is water-resistant up to 50 meters, which is sufficient to protect it from splashes and rain, but it’s advisable to remove such a magnificent timepiece before swimming.
In addition, the watch movement features a 7-tooth winding click and wolf’s tooth winding wheels, which were popular in the 19th century. If you want to know more about movement finishes, check out our article on Finishing in Haute Horlogerie. The central bridge of the watch is engraved with “LANCASTER PENNA U.S.A.,” highlighting its American production, while “RGM” is engraved at the top. Although subsequent calibers like the Pennsylvania Tourbillon Caliber MM 2 and tonneau-shaped Caliber 20 don’t introduce new features, the importance of producing high-end calibers in the United States should not be underestimated. RGM claims that its movements are 90% American-made, with only a few parts such as the balance spring and jewels produced elsewhere. Given that it is a small independent company, it is not feasible for RGM to manufacture its own balance springs or other parts in the 10% that are not American-made.
The strap
The 22mm brown alligator strap is a perfect complement to the watch. Right out of the box, it’s comfortable to wear due to its well-padded design, which eliminates the need for a break-in period. The stainless steel buckle has a tasteful RGM engraving, adding to the watch’s already elegant appearance. RGM typically produces its alligator straps through Stylecraft in Florida or Jean Rousseau in Paris. However, there are some RGM models that come with straps from Camille Fournet of Paris or Hirsch of Austria. Additionally, RGM offers special sizes and colors upon request. Even though I often switch out watch straps, I wouldn’t trade the one on the Classic Enamel for anything else. It’s tough to imagine finding a better strap.
Final Thoughts
The RGM PS-801-CE Classic Enamel is a luxurious timepiece that boasts exceptional finishing and craftsmanship. Although it is an American-made watch, it can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with some of the world’s most prestigious Swiss-made brands like IWC or Ulysse Nardin. This is largely due to the remarkable RGM 801 caliber movement, which signifies a revival of American watchmaking and promotes diversity in the world of horology. The Classic Enamel watch is a testament to the fact that talented and passionate artisans can establish their own watch brands in unexpected locations, rather than just in Switzerland, Germany or Japan, which tend to dominate the industry.
The magnificent Grand Feu enamel dial of the Classic Enamel watch showcases RGM’s ability to source unique components from independent sources, while the 801 and Caliber 20 movements exemplify the brand’s design expertise and masterful artistry that are on par with Swiss-made movements. The meticulous design details of the bridges and wheels, reminiscent of traditional movements from a bygone era, are indicative of the brand’s attention to detail and skill, surpassing the mere aesthetics of fancy perlage or Geneva stripes. With its impressive collection of timepieces, such as the Pennsylvania Tourbillon and Caliber 20 models, RGM has truly established itself as a leading master of horological engineering.
The Classic Enamel timepieces by RGM come with a price tag of USD 11,900 for the stainless steel model and USD 24,700 for the 18k rose gold version. These watches are built by hand and are considered to be luxury items, which is reflected in the price. However, the cost is not exorbitant considering the intricate enamel dial and the in-house, American-made movement that is featured in these limited production watches. RGM is an excellent option for those seeking an alternative to Swiss or German luxury brands as it is the only such brand in the United States.