Yema has a rich history that has stood the test of time, perhaps unbeknownst to many. To be honest, I initially believed it to be a reanimated brand, one of those long-forgotten names revived by shrewd entrepreneurs, like Aquastar or Nivada Grenchen. However, Yema was actually established in 1948 in Besançon, France, and it continues to thrive there even today. Although Yema offers reissued versions of its classic timepieces, it has surpassed the expectations set for zombie brands. A shining example of this is the remarkable Yema Superman 500.
While the brand boasts a few chronograph models, the Superman series receives the most acclaim. In 2018, Yema commemorated its 70th anniversary with the highly anticipated release of the Superman Heritage dive watch. Over the years, the brand has made impressive strides, developing its own YEMA2000 caliber, enhancing the construction of the Superman timepieces, and expanding the line. The Yema Superman 500 represents a natural progression from the Superman Heritage, featuring the YEMA2000 caliber, a dateless design, and notable upgrades in water resistance, crown functionality, and crystal quality.
The vintage charm of this watch is accentuated by its beige lume, arrow-shaped hand, and triangular marker at 12 o’clock. Right from the outset, the slim case evokes a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of an era when dive watches were designed to be sleeker. However, the most distinctive feature lies in the bezel lock positioned at 3 o’clock, adding a touch of uniqueness to the timepiece.
The Case
The Yema Superman 500 presents two size options, 39mm or 41mm (with the 39mm having slightly shorter lug-to-lug dimensions), catering to a wide range of preferences. Although the watch retains the vintage model’s polished appearance throughout, except for the bezel wall, it does raise concerns about potential scratches. Surprisingly, during my time with the watch, I didn’t notice any scuffs, which left me pleasantly surprised. The enhanced crown mechanism delivers an exceptional winding experience, characterized by its smoothness, silent operation, and a satisfying level of resistance that indicates active engagement. However, I must mention that the pointed ends of the crown guards could be felt with each rotation and even caused my fingers to catch on them a couple of times.
Despite the straighter lugs and caseback, the Yema Superman 500 sits comfortably on the wrist. In fact, the caseback has been thickened to enhance the watch’s water resistance, allowing it to withstand pressures of up to 500 meters. The tall crystal does exhibit some distortion at the edges, but it doesn’t significantly impact legibility. Remaining faithful to the classic design of Superman, the bezel insert is crafted from aluminum. While the bracelet’s drop is somewhat steep visually, it doesn’t affect the wearability in any practical sense.
Now, let’s delve into the bezel lock—a distinguishing feature of Superman that undoubtedly showcases intriguing vintage technology. However, it becomes apparent that the lock serves more as a horological embellishment rather than a functional necessity. Firstly, the Superman 500’s unidirectional bezel exhibits excellent action and minimal chances of accidental rotation. Secondly, even if the bezel were friction-based or bidirectional, the lock severely limits its usability. Quick adjustments for timing purposes, such as cooking pasta or monitoring timeouts, are impractical. Moreover, if the watch were to be used for diving, the bezel lock would only allow timing of the entire dive, as it cannot be adjusted underwater (verified through conversations with experienced divers). Additionally, the locking device itself tends to float around when the crown is unscrewed, contributing to a somewhat flimsy impression, although it does secure firmly when locked.
The Dial
The design of the dial is relatively straightforward. While it may not appeal to those who dislike the “vintage lume” aesthetic, I believe it complements the black dial nicely without being overly conspicuous. The legibility is excellent, thanks to the pronounced contrast between the luminous markers and hands. The addition of a red stop light seconds hand is a thoughtful detail that matches the dial text.
I appreciate the three-dimensional effect and the sharpness of the lume, which is slightly elevated from the dial’s surface. My only minor criticism regarding the dial is that the large size of the 12 o’clock triangle necessitates shrinking the logo and brand, which could have been moderated for a more balanced appearance.
The luminosity of the Yema watch is truly remarkable. Considering some of the other idiosyncrasies of the timepiece, I half-expected to be let down. However, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the watch glowed brightly and evenly, including the bezel pip. It quickly charged with a brief exposure to natural light and remained easily readable even in the dimly lit stairwells of my home for an extended period.
The Rest
The Yema Superman 500 watch showcases the exceptional YEMA2000 movement, exclusively crafted by Yema. While there may be some debate, it is fair to consider this movement as made in-house, as it is developed, designed, assembled, and regulated by Yema at their workshops in Morteau, France. This level of dedication is usually reserved for the most esteemed watchmakers, making Yema deserving of the “in-house” recognition. Yema’s MBP1000 has undergone significant improvements in its gear elements, regulation mechanism, and date function. This evolution has resulted in the creation of the movement. This automatic movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, contains 29 jewels, boasts a 42-hour power reserve, and maintains a remarkable precision of -/+10 seconds per day. Count me in!
Individuals familiar with Yema watches will often point out that the clasp is the weakest aspect of their timepieces. It is perplexing that such attention to detail is given to the watch itself, including the bracelet, but the clasp feels flimsy and lacks substance. Functionally, it serves its purpose, but one cannot help but question why the same level of care was not extended to the clasp. The bracelet, on the other hand, presents a minor issue with the contrast between the brushed endlinks and the polished case. This clash creates an unusual aesthetic that seems out of place. Nonetheless, the bracelet maintains the watch’s sleek profile, and the drilled lugs facilitate strap changes with ease.
If given the option, I typically recommend purchasing a watch on its bracelet, and I would still suggest the same for the Yema Superman 500. However, if that is not your preference, there are alternative options available, such as an FKM rubber strap with a folding clasp or a leather strap. Interestingly, the rubber strap option comes at a higher cost compared to the bracelet option. The watch also pairs well with other straps, including the aforementioned options and a selection of slim leather bands I possess. The design of the case allows NATO straps to add minimal height.
Final Notes
In terms of reissues, the Yema Superman 500 excels remarkably. Although it may be labeled as a reissue, it truly represents an evolution from the original 2018 Superman Heritage model, which itself was a reissue. Considering the improved specifications and the inclusion of the remarkable in-house movement, I would argue that it surpasses its Heritage counterpart. For those not fond of black, the model also offers a blue dial variant with a matching bezel, featuring traditional white luminescent elements. If you can disregard the slight inconvenience of the bezel lock, the Yema Superman 500 is an outstanding watch, and there is definitely a version that will catch your attention.