Since its inception in 1953, the Vulcain Cricket has held a prestigious position as the first mechanical alarm wristwatch, adorning the wrists of esteemed presidents throughout history. This iconic timepiece has always been a sought-after vintage choice, capturing the essence of an era. In 2022, Vulcain is proud to unveil two distinct model lines, available in different sizes, carrying forward the rich legacy of the Cricket. These new collections, known as the Vulcain Cricket Classic and Cricket Tradition, are poised to continue the remarkable heritage of this revered timekeeping icon.
Leading the charge in this remarkable rebirth is the talented Frenchman, Guillaume Laidet. Not only has he successfully revived renowned brands like Nivada Grenchen and Excelsior Park, but his expertise also stems from invaluable experiences gained while working with distinguished watchmaking houses such as Zenith, Girard-Perregaux, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Laidet’s passion for horology has guided him in breathing new life into these revered names, ushering in a new era of exceptional craftsmanship.
Having had the privilege of spending significant time with four of these extraordinary timepieces, I am thrilled to share my impressions with you. Below, you will find my thoughts, which resonate strongly with the sentiments expressed in 10cc’s timeless hit, “Dreadlock Holiday,” particularly around the one-minute mark. Prepare to embark on a captivating journey into the realm of the Vulcain Cricket, where tradition meets innovation and artistry intertwines with functionality.
Two dial alternatives
Let’s begin with the Cricket Tradition, featuring exquisite Arabic numerals and indices that encircle the dial. In a limited edition, the salmon variant exhibits a subtle pink-bronze sheen that beautifully complements the applied indices. The bold blue seconds and alarm hands stand out against the dial, creating a noticeable contrast. Meanwhile, the graceful dauphine hands curve elegantly towards the underside of the crystal. The Cricket Tradition opts for a simplified design for the printed alarm and minute tracks, eschewing numeric minute indicators and instead using numerals like 10, 30, and 50 to mark the alarm times. However, it’s worth noting that due to the box-domed curvature of the crystal, these indications may be less visible from certain angles.
Now let’s discuss the alternative dial configuration called the Classic, which is a tribute by Vulcain to the LBJ dial found in the earliest versions of the Cricket. This stunning example, as showcased by Eric Wind, draws inspiration from Lyndon B. Johnson, the 36th president of the United States.
The LBJ-dialed Classic boasts a fully printed dial, featuring a ring with luminescent-filled numerals and a trapezoid instead of the traditional 12 o’clock index. The larger numerals and bold printing significantly enhance legibility on this particular Cricket, even with the inclusion of a printed minute track and a more intricate alarm track.
While the proportions are commendable, it would have been intriguing to see one of the models experiment with dial tones, paying homage to the radium-inflicted patina commonly observed on models from the 1960s.
Elegant proportions
The latest Cricket timepiece comes in two sizes: 36mm and 39mm, catering to vintage enthusiasts regardless of their wrist proportions. In comparison, the previous Crickets measured at 34mm and boasted prominent lugs, ensuring a noticeable presence on the wrist. The new model features a more refined case profile with slender, elegantly curved lugs that taper downwards.
For individuals like myself, who have smaller wrists and a penchant for nostalgia, a 36mm watch with contemporary internals and captivating vintage design is a true blessing. Standing at 13.1mm in height, it may appear tall considering its compact dimensions of 36mm by 44mm. However, it’s important to note that around 3mm of the overall height is attributed to the sapphire crystal. Activating the alarm keyless mechanism provides a delightful sensation, as you hear a pleasing click when pressing the pushers at 2 o’clock, followed by another equally satisfying click when adjusting the alarm time using the main crown. The oversized crown facilitates winding, which can be done in both directions due to the Cricket’s dual barrels—a topic we’ll delve into later.
In simple terms, the 39mm case offers more of what the Cricket has to offer. While maintaining a thickness of 13.1mm, the wearability improves as the dimensions are better distributed across the larger diameter. Similar to its smaller counterpart, the case is fully polished, although Vulcain mentions that the production models will have a satin-finished bezel and caseback, differing from the prototypes depicted above. Furthermore, the strap options expand as well, with the lug width increasing from 18mm in the smaller model to 20mm in the 39mm version. Regarding straps, the Crickets will be accompanied by either a leather or alligator leather strap, fastened with a pin buckle. Additionally, a folding buckle will be available as an alternative option.
In-house alarm
Cricket’s heart beats with the remarkable Vulcain Manufacture V-10 Caliber, meticulously crafted from 165 components. This exquisite mechanism showcases dual barrels, each with its own purpose. One barrel, offering a 42-hour power reserve, is dedicated to timekeeping, while the other is responsible for the alarm function. When fully wound, the alarm produces a resonant ring that lasts for up to 20 seconds. Notably, Vulcain’s ingenuity is showcased through the patented Exactomatic system, which dates back to 1946. This ingenious invention serves to equalize friction on the balance wheel axis, enhancing accuracy and consistency by modifying the Incabloc endstones.
The result is an improved shock protection system, ensuring precise timekeeping even when the watch is worn. Surprisingly, the Cricket possesses a low-beat movement, with a gentle tick of 18,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 ticks per second. Its impeccable craftsmanship extends to its elegant adornments, including nickel-plated surfaces, heat-blued screws, and intricately skeletonized ratchet wheels. Nevertheless, the true essence of the Cricket lies in its mechanical alarm. With a delicately positioned hammer striking a pin just above the balance wheel, it emits a distinctive sound reminiscent of a cricket. For a more comprehensive understanding, accompanied by technical illustrations, one may explore Vulcain’s official website.
Final Notes
Cricket has always held a certain allure, particularly among vintage enthusiasts. The introduction of the 36mm and 39mm variations brings back the essence of the original 42mm model, and I must admit, I thoroughly enjoyed my time with them. Despite being slightly taller than other watches of this size, the cases fit snugly on the wrist, and the distinct buzzing sound never fails to bring a smile to my face. In terms of the Vulcain brand, it appears to be in capable hands. Guillaume Laidet has demonstrated his expertise in building upon the initial excitement generated by revived models. In fact, he has already outlined plans for two new watches within the Vulcain lineup, with ambitions of revitalizing other iconic brands like Universal Genève.